Everyday Middle Eastern recipes from Souk to Table

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Our cookbook of the week is Souk to Table by Amina Al-Saigh, Toronto-based author, former engineer and founder of the Middle Eastern food blog Hungry Paprikas.

Jump to the recipes: lentil soup, one-pot chicken and saffron orzo, and Sarra’s saucy skillet trout.

Amina Al-Saigh translated a career in engineering to food. “For the longest time, I saw them as separate because they use different parts of me,” says the Toronto-based author and creator of the Middle Eastern food blog Hungry Paprikas. “Engineering is numbers and project management and very corporate-heavy skills. And then food is the creative, the cultural, the emotional, the love.”

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In 2023, when she left her job as an engineer to pursue food full-time, the two started to intersect. Writing her cookbook debut, Souk to Table (Rock Point, 2024), Al-Saigh used the same skills and techniques she once applied to multimillion-dollar projects.

“My ex-colleagues all know. They’re like, ‘You probably have so many spreadsheets,’” says Al-Saigh, laughing. “I was like, ‘Yep, I do.’”

Without her engineering background, Al-Saigh suspects making a living in food media would be challenging. She has a focused goal and is guided by the mission to preserve traditional Middle Eastern flavours while making recipes approachable for modern cooks. Having a solid foundation in business strategy helps her sustain herself financially. In telling her story, she uses communication skills honed by speaking to boardrooms full of people.

Al-Saigh initially found a creative outlet in the kitchen while on a year-long maternity leave in London, England, where she had moved to join her husband after graduating from McMaster University. Her passion for food photography and developing recipes encouraged her to keep the blog going when she moved back to Canada with her family in 2018.

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“Throughout high school, throughout university, I was a math girl. I was like, ‘I’m not creative.’ But then, I started to do photography.” The photos Al-Saigh created made her realize that if she’s passionate about something, she can tap into her creative side. And when it came to shooting Souk to Table, she knew she had to do it herself. “I wanted the photos to represent my ethnicity.”

In Souk to Table, Al-Saigh sought to expand people’s understanding of Middle Eastern food and illustrate the region’s diversity. She was born in Mosul, Iraq, and her family moved to Benghazi, Libya, when she was five. They then moved to Canada and settled in Hamilton when Al-Saigh was 10. Food became a way to stay connected to their culture. It was effortless because “we simply couldn’t stop eating our Iraqi food.”

Besides the Iraqi dishes close to her heart, Al-Saigh features recipes from other Middle Eastern countries in Souk to Table. “They’re all unique. The Middle Eastern region isn’t just one blob. There are so many different subcultures, and, yes, we all speak a similar language, but there are different dialects and different foods. And if you look across the region, you can find varied, simple and easy-to-make recipes that aren’t intimidating.”

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When Al-Saigh’s publisher approached her about writing a cookbook, she took the opportunity seriously and considered her message. “I was hard on myself about, ‘How do I represent Arabs? How do I represent my culture?’ I was very thoughtful about that.”

In the West, the Middle Eastern label is often limited to shawarma, hummus and falafel, says Al-Saigh. “But we don’t even eat those regularly,” she laughs. “Those are street foods. I wanted to showcase the variety and the home cooking of Middle Eastern and Arabic food — what I grew up eating every day when I walked in the door and what my mom would cook.”

As part of that effort, Al-Saigh set out to highlight “under-documented” Iraqi dishes in Souk to Table, including timman ahmar (red rice), aroog (beef patties), mutabbaq simach (spiced fish and rice), tapsi betenjan (eggplant casserole) and a nod to the ancient torshana or qaysi, a sweet-and-sour stew made with apricots, prunes and lamb. “Here in the GTA, it’s having a moment with all the new restaurants, but overall, Iraqi cuisine hasn’t yet been really discovered.”

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Before conceptualizing the book’s recipes, Al-Saigh surveyed her followers about what they most wanted to see. Many responded “quick, easy, weekday-friendly and working-person friendly,” which prompted Al-Saigh to concentrate on dinners arranged by the type of dish, such as condiments and dips, salads and sides, soups and stews, and by time commitment: 30 minutes, one hour and worth the effort.

“I love and respect and appreciate my mom’s elaborate meals, but I always find ways to make them quicker because it’s like a weekend project. It’s not an everyday thing. And so, I was really focused on how to make these recipes accessible and easy, but you still get that flavour and that joy.’”

SHORBAT ADAS

Lentil Soup

Makes: 8 servings

3 tbsp vegetable oil
2 large yellow onions, roughly chopped
1 large potato, peeled and roughly chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and roughly chopped
1 1/2 tsp kosher salt, plus more if needed
1 1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp black pepper, or to taste
2 cups (370 g) split red lentils, rinsed and drained
8 cups (2 L) chicken broth or water, plus more if needed

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For serving:
Lemon wedges
Crunchy pita chips (see note; optional)

Step 1

In a large pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions, potato and carrot and cook, stirring often, for 4 to 5 minutes, until the vegetables are slightly browned. Add the salt, cumin and pepper, stir, and cook for another 3 to 4 minutes.

Step 2

Add the lentils and 8 cups (2 L) broth and mix well. Cover the pot with the lid and bring to a rolling boil. Reduce the heat to medium and let the soup cook, covered, for 30 to 45 minutes, until the vegetables and lentils are soft. Taste and adjust the salt if necessary. If you like the soup thinner, add more broth and let it cook for a few more minutes.

Step 3

Turn off the heat and carefully blend the soup using an immersion blender right in the pot. (If you do not have an immersion blender, carefully transfer to a regular blender, blending in batches, until the consistency is smooth.)

Step 4

Ladle into bowls and serve with lemon wedges for squeezing and crunchy pita chips (if using) for topping.

Note: To make the crunchy pita chips for topping, simply cut the desired amount of pita bread into small squares. Heat 2 to 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet and fry the pita squares until golden and crunchy, stirring often.

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ONE-POT CHICKEN & SAFFRON ORZO

Makes: 4 or 5 servings

1 1/2 lb (680 g) boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 4 large breasts)
1 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp onion powder
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp parsley flakes
1 tsp paprika
1/2 tsp black pepper
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp butter

Orzo:
1/2 tsp saffron strands
2 tbsp hot water
1 tbsp olive oil
1/2 large yellow onion, finely chopped
1 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp onion powder
1/2 tsp garlic powder
1/4 tsp paprika
2 large cloves garlic, minced
16 oz (454 g) orzo
4 cups (960 mL) chicken broth
1 tbsp butter

For garnishing and serving:
1/4 cup (13 g) finely chopped fresh parsley
Lemon slices
Salad

Step 1

To make the chicken: Place a chicken breast on a cutting board and hold it flat with the palm of your non-knife-holding hand. Using a sharp chef’s knife, slice the chicken breast horizontally into 2 even cutlets using as few strokes as possible for a smooth finish. Repeat with the remaining chicken breasts.

Step 2

In a large bowl, mix together the salt, 1 teaspoon onion powder, 1 teaspoon garlic powder, parsley flakes, 1 teaspoon paprika and pepper. Add the chicken cutlets and thoroughly coat with the seasoning mix.

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Step 3

In a large 2-inch-deep (5 cm) skillet, heat the oil and butter over medium heat. Add the chicken cutlets, working in batches so as to avoid overcrowding, and sear for 2 minutes on each side until golden. Transfer to a plate.

Step 4

To make the orzo: Bloom the saffron by grinding the strands into a powder using a mortar and pestle. Place the powder in a small bowl, pour in the hot water, and let sit for 5 minutes.

Step 5

In the same skillet the chicken was cooked in, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes, or until softened and translucent. Add the salt, 1/2 teaspoon onion powder, 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder, 1/4 teaspoon paprika and garlic and cook, stirring often, for a few more minutes. Add the orzo and toast it for a few minutes, stirring continuously. Stir in the broth and saffron water and bring to a boil.

Step 6

Once boiling, add the chicken cutlets back into the skillet in a single layer, cover the skillet with a tight-fitting lid, and cook over medium heat for 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and let sit for 10 minutes. Check that the chicken cutlets are cooked through by using a meat thermometer and ensuring the interior is heated to 165F (74C), or by cutting a piece to check that it is white inside. If required, cover and cook for a few more minutes.

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Step 7

Cut the 1 tablespoon butter into small pieces and add it over the orzo to finish, then garnish with the chopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon. Serve with salad.

SARRA’S SAUCY SKILLET TROUT

Makes: 4 servings

Spice paste:
1 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 1/2 tsp paprika
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tbsp avocado oil

Trout:
1 skin-on rainbow trout fillet (1 1/2 lb/680 g), cut into 4 or 5 pieces
1 tbsp avocado oil
1/2 large yellow onion, finely chopped
2 large cloves garlic, minced
1/2 large red bell pepper, finely chopped
1 tbsp tomato paste
1 tbsp pomegranate molasses (see note)
1 cup (240 mL) boiling water

Garnishing and serving:
2 tbsp finely chopped fresh parsley
Rice
Salad

Step 1

To make the spice paste: In a small bowl, combine all the paste ingredients and mix well.

Step 2

To make the trout: Reserve 1 to 2 teaspoons of the spice paste, then slather the remaining paste all over the trout fillet.

Step 3

In a large nonstick skillet, heat the 1 tablespoon avocado oil over medium-high heat. Add the trout and sear the pieces for 1 minute per side until golden. Transfer to a plate.

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Step 4

In the same skillet the trout was cooked in, add the onion, garlic, bell pepper and reserved spice paste. Cook and stir for 3 to 4 minutes, until the onion is softened.

Step 5

Add the tomato paste and pomegranate molasses and mix until well combined. Pour in the boiling water and stir to create a sauce. Cover the pan with the lid and reduce the heat to medium. Let simmer for 5 to 7 minutes. If you want a thicker sauce, uncover the pan and allow the water to bubble for 3 to 4 minutes to reduce.

Step 6

Add the trout pieces back into the skillet, cover the pan again, and let simmer for 8 to 10 minutes. Check that the fish is cooked by inserting a fork at its thickest part; it should be nearly opaque, moist and flake easily with the fork.

Step 7

Spoon the pan sauce over the top of the fish and garnish with the chopped parsley. Serve with rice and salad.

Note: If you don’t have pomegranate molasses, you can substitute it with a few squeezes of lemon juice.

Recipes and photography ©2024 by Amina Al-Saigh.

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